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Hi Wine Friends,
I got so many sweet notes from many of you this past week in regards to last week’s newsletter on the future of Oregon wine and moving out of the shadow of Burgundy. I’m thrilled to see your excitement for innovation and experimentation, and some of you have been asking exactly which producers I recommend in this arena.
So I thought I’d use this week to follow the lead of food journalism and make you a list of favorite wine producers… It’s an eclectic selection that spans both the Willamette Valley and the Columbia Gorge and ranges from small garagiste young guns to larger, more established operations. All share the same passion for creativity and innovation and make excellent wines with a commitment to healthy farming and minimal intervention in the winery (while still curating clean wines).
I hope you seek them out and discover some new favorite bottles! So without further ado, here are my picks for the Top 10 Most Exciting Producers in Oregon right now!
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Starting with a winery renowned for both classic and unique varietals, Hundred Suns, led by winemaker Grant Coulter, brings a fresh take on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay while also crafting standout Gamay, Syrah, and still Pinot Meunier. Despite his youth, Grant’s extensive experience at Beaux Freres and Flaneur shines through and, since founding Hundred Suns with his incredible wife Renee in 2019, their two-person operation has produced wines that are both approachable and sophisticated. The wines have an uncanny ability to be friendly and delicious but also complex and quixotic. Notable cuvees include the Lone Feather Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Gamay, and the soon-to-be-released Pinot Meunier.
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Sacred Shore is so new that their wines haven’t even hit the market yet, making this an exclusive first look! Winemakers Andrew Reichers (of Antica Terra, Hiyu and, currently, Audeant) and John Soares are crafting Albarino, Mencia, Chenin Blanc, and Sangiovese from the Willamette Valley and Columbia Gorge. The debut wines are impressive, with their Albarino rivaling the best from Spain and their Chenin Blanc echoing the lean, textured profiles of Saumur. Mark your calendars for their September release!
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Hiyu Wine Farm, under the visionary Master Somm-turned-vigneron Nate Ready, merges historical winemaking techniques with innovative farming practices. Nate delves into ancient winemaking traditions, reviving field blends and diverse varietals from historical snapshots like medieval Burgundy and ancient Savoie. His own signature flavor of farming - part biodynamic, part regenerative, part permaculture, part wizardry - nurtures a unique and resilient vineyard ecosystem. Hiyu’s produces over 40 wines and releases them at whim - each more creative than the next. Some favorites are the ‘Falcon Box’ - a co-fermentation of Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Aligote, Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier and Melon de Bourgogne, reminiscent of old-school Burgundy, and ‘Solais,’ a pinkish-orange Châteauneuf-du-Pape-inspired blend. The wines aren’t cheap, but a visit to Hiyu is one-of-a-kind and completely worth it!
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Analemma’s focus on Spanish varietals is a breath of fresh air in Oregon. Their vineyards are home to a fascinating collection of Iberian grapes not typically seen in the Pacific Northwest, including Albariño, Godello, Mencia, Garnacha, Tempranillo and more. Similar to Andrew and John of Sacred Shore, Kris and Steven of Analemma believe that there are many parallels between Spain’s Ribeira Sacra and our own Columbia River Gorge. And if the quality of their wines is any indication, I’m inclined to agree with them! Don’t miss their Blanco - a refreshing, crowd-pleasing blend of Albarino and Godello - or their Trousseau, which is actually grown widely in Spain under the name Merenzao.
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Like Hundred Suns, Evan Martin of Martin Woods is deftly producing both traditional and more esoteric grape varietals. While his Jesse James vineyard Pinot Noir and Koosah vineyard Chardonnay are two of my very favorites, its his Gruner Veltliner, Gamay, Riesling, and Cabernet Franc that I use to showcase the evolving potential of Oregon’s terroir. Evan’s innovative use of Oregon oak barrels (coopered from windblown trees on his 40-acre McMinville property) adds a lean, saline note to his wines - a practice that I wish more producers seeking to truly express Oregon’s terroir would adopt. I love his Rocks District Cabernet Franc (lean and peppery and more in line with Loire Valley styles than the typically ripe Washington fares) and I think he makes one of the best Riesling’s outside of Germany!
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Founded by Kate Norris and Tom Monroe, Division has been a cornerstone of Portland’s wine scene since 2010, with a fearless embrace of non-traditional styles and varietals. This winery is a playground for exploration, with wines ranging from Chenin Blanc to Nebbiolo, Aligote, Sauvignon Blanc, Malbec and more. Their new tasting room on SE 8th and Harrison, designed by Kate herself, is as charming as their wines. I love that you can take a proverbial trip to wine country without leaving actually leaving the city! Don’t miss their L’Isle Vert Chenin Blanc, La Frontiere Sauvignon Blanc or Gala Gamay.
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Kelley is a true pioneer of Oregon’s wine scene, quietly making some of the most exciting and focused wines around. After decades of experience with Oregon icons like Torii Mor, Hamacher and Eyrie (where she was mentored by the godfather of Oregon wine David Lett himself!), she crafts Pinot and Chardonnay from classic vineyards like Maresh and Momtazi, but also pours her adventurous spirit into creative projects like skin-contact Muscat, vermouth and even a a sparkling blueberry wine made just like Pinot Noir that’s truly one-of-a-kind. I love her Willamette Valley Gruner Veltliner (crunchy, floral and full of green notes like lime zest and tarragon) and her orangey pink Nerthus - a skin contact blend of Early Muscat, Pinot Gris, Riesling and Pinot Blanc that test like just-ripe peaches on a fresh summer day.
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As the singular Gamay-only producer in Oregon, Bethany Kimmel’s Color Collector is a testament to how one grape can offer a dazzling range of expressions. She works with multiple vineyards in both the Willamette Valley and Columbia Gorge to create Gamays ranging from light, floral and delicate (like the carbonic Lila cuvee) to dense, structured and brambly (like her Bjornson vineyard cuvee). And her rose is one of the most delicious, food-friendly summer wines around! She also recently opened Soca in White Salmon - a tasting room that doubles as a wine shop and restaurant and who’s incredibly fresh and creative menu is worth a trip to the Gorge in and of itself!
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In the balance of innovation and tradition, Johan Vineyards definitely puts the innovation foot forward. Nestled in the sunny but wind-whipped Van Duzer Corridor, Johan’s experimental portfolio boasts an impressive range of unique grape varieties. From Grüner Veltliner and Blaufränkisch to Savagnin and Kerner, Johan is redefining what Oregon wine can be. Their biodynamic farming practices underscore their commitment to sustainability, and the working farm setting adds a touch of rustic charm. Plus, events like Lambapalooza - a springtime open house featuring yummy wines and lamb cuddles - make them darlings of the community. Landscape. I love their Muscadet-inspired Melon de Bourgogne, floral and spicy skin-fermented Ribolla Gialla, and peppery and playful Zweigelt.
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Another garagiste Portland producer, Tyler Magyar (who you may recognize from running the vibrant wine program at World Foods) makes attention-grabbing natural wine out of a warehouse in Sellwood. While the term ‘natural wine’ can be divisive, Tyler manages to make clean and delicious wines with minimal sulfur dioxide as the only additive to his bottles. We’ve poured his Jenny orange rose at Arden to high praise - a sunny homage to his mother made from a co-fermentation of Willamette Valley Muscat and Rogue Valley Syrah. And while he does make one (very good) traditional Pinot Noir, the bulk of his production focuses on experimental cuvees such as Pollen - a co-fermentation of Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Syrah - and Smitherenees - a skin-contact co-ferment of Chardonnay and Muscat.
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I hope this guide was helpful! Can’t wait to hear what you think of these wines and what you pair them with 🙂
Cheers,
Kelsey
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