Are you feeling the pre-harvest jitters?

Hi Wine Friends, 

I’ve spent the past week spending quality time with and bidding farewell to all my winemaking friends. Am I moving across the country? No. Going on a transatlantic journey? No. But harvest is about to begin and that means that I won’t see these talented people for weeks (certainly) or months (probably).

Does anyone else in Oregon feel this pre-harvest buzz? My friend Nori aptly described it as a slingshot… in the last half of August, the band begins to get pulled back and the tension in winemakers becomes palpable until, come mid-September, the slingshot releases, picking begins and crews are catapulted into the beautiful chaos that is harvest, not to be seen again until late October.

So this newsletter begins the first in a multi-part ‘harvest report,’ of sorts. Over the coming weeks, I’ll track what’s happening in wine country and break down the steps of the process - in case you’re unfamiliar with what’s actually taking place out there.

In anticipation of what’s to come, I thought I’d use this week to just set the scene…

What’s Happening all Summer in the Winery?

Bottling day for our canned wine project a few summers back

I’m so glad you asked. And the answer is easy - not a whole lot. At least not in the winery itself. In late Spring (sometimes early summer), many winemakers bottle the wine from the previous vintage, thereby freeing up barrels they will need for this year’s juice. They then need to clean those barrels and generally get organized for the upcoming madness.

Most of the attention over the summer is, as you might imagine, in the vineyard. While the rest of us are lazing by the pool drinking a cold one, the vines are busy with critical stages like fruit set, veraison, and ripening.

Fruit set happens as the blossoms on the vines develop into small berries. At this stage, the berries are still small, hard, and green, packed with acid and lacking sweetness. But as summer's heat intensifies, they gradually accumulate sugar and lose their sharp acidity, setting the stage for the delicious, balanced fruit we all look forward to. 

Another summer vineyard term is veraison. This is when the grapes begin to change color, signaling that they’re maturing. White and gray grapes (like Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris) turn shades of yellow, gold, and pink, while red varieties (like Pinot Noir) deepen into maroon, purple, and black. This color change is also a part of phenolic ripening, and contributes to the grapes' flavor, color, and overall profile.

The magic of veraison

Summer also brings a shift in vineyard care. The frantic pace of spring, filled with tasks like mildew prevention and shoot thinning, gives way to a more relaxed rhythm. Summer is a time to ensure the shoots and leaves are in optimal condition. This process, known as canopy management, is all about balancing sunlight, shade, and air circulation around the fruit clusters so as to protect them from heat but not stifle airflow (which leads to mildew).

As the vines soak up the sun and slowly transform, vineyard managers are fine-tuning their approach, making sure every grape reaches its full potential before harvest. It’s the final mile of the race and, by early September, winemakers are ready to cross the finish line.

Nate Ready shows off summer abundance at Hiyu’s Columbia Gorge vineyards

There’s a nuanced concept to understand when it comes to summer temperatures and that is: achieving the perfect balance between sugar ripeness and phenolic ripeness. Sugar ripeness refers to the point where the grapes have developed enough sugars to produce the desired alcohol levels in wine. Phenolic ripeness, on the other hand, involves the maturation of tannins, color compounds, and flavors that contribute to the wine's complexity. 

In a hot summer, grapes often reach sugar ripeness too early, requiring early harvest to avoid overly high alcohol and too little acid. This can result in a wine that's fruit-forward but lacks complexity. Conversely, in cooler, more moderate summers, grapes can achieve phenolic ripeness alongside optimal sugar levels, leading to wines with greater complexity, richer flavors, and more nuanced non-fruit characteristics.

In Oregon, when people refer to a ‘classic vintage’ they’re talking about the cool, moderate ones.. And, while this summer has had us bemoaning the overall lack of sunshine, it’s been fantastic for grapes! So the big question now is whether this current heat spike will continue or cool back off and let the grapes keep gradually developing nuance and flavor. Let’s cross our fingers it’s the latter.

But all around the globe, winemakers are grappling with how to combat the change in climate and weather patterns. If you read my recent newsletter on California, you’ll know that it’s getting harder to blind taste classic wine styles between New and Old World regions, because newer regions have the flexibility to find new growing sites, while classic regions are compelled by traditional to honor historic sites.

Regardless, here in Oregon, we can count our blessings that it has been a great summer and let’s all knock on wood that it stays that way!

Picking starts this for sparkling, and then whites and reds are coming soon - so send all the good vibes out to the Valley and Gorge, and drop a care package off for all the winemakers in your life!

Cheers and until next week,

Kelsey