Top 10 Most Exciting Sonoma Producers

Aug 31, 2024

 

 

 

Hi Wine Friends,

As promised, here is a roundup of my favorite Sonoma wines at present—those I’ve visited and tasted of late and really enjoyed. All of these producers exemplify the new wave of winemaking that’s sweeping Sonoma and helping to redefine what many Oregonians used to think of as stodgy, oaky California wine. These are not your grandma’s Chardonnays, and many of them don’t make Chardonnay at all. Those that do are making waves with styles that you might mistake for Chablis (see last week’s newsletter).

I’ve tried to include only wineries that can be found in Portland and, in a few cases where they are not, I’ve made a note so you’ll have to go down and visit them yourself!

So without further ado, here are my Top 10 Most Exciting Sonoma Producers...

 
   
  
 
 
 

Ryme

Ryme is known for its experimental approach and focus on lesser-known varietals - many of them southern Italian. Winemakers Ryan and Megan (Ry+Me) are crafting playful wines with a nod to old-world charm, showcasing freshness and lot’s of flavor. Their His and Hers Vermentino’s are so fun to taste side-by-side and really showcase their duality of creativity and tradition: Hers is classic, lean and mineral-driven and His is skin-contact, in-your-face aromatic and full of grippy texture. Other favorites include the Frappato - a light, floral, chillable red - and the Aglianico - a big, spicy, structured red to bring to the BBQ! 

 
 

  

  

  

  

  
 
 

Idlewild

While Ryme looks to southern Italy for inspiration, Idlewild looks to the north and, more specifically, to Piedmont. Idlewild produces not only major grapes like Nebbiolo, Barbera and Dolcetto, but also more obscure Piedmontese offerings like Arneis, Freisa, Grignolino and Erbaluce. In fact, they now have over 40 Italian grapes planted! And while the wines aren’t identical to their Italian counterparts, they are fascinating and delicious in their own right: slightly more fruit-forward in style but vinified with an eye for bright, refreshing quaffability. Don’t miss the Timorasso if you love styles like Muscadet or Albarino!

 
 
 

  

  

  

  

  
 
 
 

Jolie Laide

Jolie Laide (pretty / ugly) is French slang for a woman who is irresistible in an unconventionally beautiful way, and the wines Scott Schultz crafts live up to the intrigue: gorgeous expressions of unconventional grape varietals. Take the Trousseau Gris as example - as a grey (or ‘pink’) skinned grape, the skin-contact rendition they produce is a pale peach color and deliciously mysterious. Is it a rose or an orange? Do you enjoy it as an aperitif or paired with roast chicken? The answer is yes to all. Other favorites are the textured, crisp Scheurebe (an obscure and aromatic Austrian grape), the spicy, whole-cluster Mondeuse (native to alpine Savoie) and their many exquisite renditions of Syrah.

 
 

  

  

  

  

  
 
 

Forlorn Hope

Okay, so technically Forlorn Hope is not a Sonoma winery - they farm old, historic vineyards in the Sierra Foothills. As one of the oldest and most historic regions in California (born of the Gold Rush in 1849), the Sierras are home to rocky, limestone-rich vineyards that sit at up to 2000’ elevation! Forlorn Hope farms organically and produces minimal-intervention bottlings of Muscat, Verdellho, Semillon, Zinfandel, Tempranillo and much more. Look to their ‘Queen of the Sierras’ line for unique co-ferments and their ‘Rare Creatures’ for single-varietal cuvees.

 
 
 

  

  

  

  

  
 
 
 

Raen

Raen, a new project from Carlo and Dante Mondavi (yes, those Mondavis), is making waves with its Sonoma Coast Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs. With hillside vineyards that overlook cool, foggy Bodega Bay, the brothers are pushing the bounds of not only how California defines cool climate sites, but also how the world defines responsible farming. Carlo is leading the charge on forward-thinking viticulture with biodynamic and regenerative practices as well as the development of the fully-electric Monarch tractor. Raen’s ‘Lady Marjorie’ Chardonnay is my personal favorite for its Chablis-like qualities—crisp, mineral-driven, and wonderfully expressive. 

 
 

  

  

  

  

  
 
 

Bedrock

Bedrock Wine Co. is a powerhouse of historic vineyard sites and traditional winemaking, and is based in Sonoma but spreads beyond - to Lodi, Amador County and more. They were at the forefront of the ‘natural’ wine movement but, now in their 17th vintage, they have dialed in minimal-intervention to a near-perfect science and there is no hint of funky ‘nattiness.’ As I mentioned last week, their 2023 Sauvignon Blanc is a dead-ringer for Old World Sancerre. And other cuvees like the Ode to Lulu Rose (a doppleganger to Bandol) and the Heritage Red Blend (an old vine Zinfandel-based blend) are similarly rustic and understated.

 
 
 

  

  

  

  

  
 
 
 

Arnot-Roberts

Arnot-Roberts, a darling of Sonoma and Napa lovers, was at the forefront of the effort to lighten up California wines and move away from high-alcohol, overly-oaked styles. Yes, they make non-traditional grapes like Falanghina, Ribolla Gialla and Trousseau, but they also make excellent renditions of classics like Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. If you want to try a Cab Sauv that won’t stain your teeth red and send you to sleep an hour early, their Fellom Ranch bottling from the Santa Cruz Mountains is one of my absolute favorites - full of just-ripe blackberries, fresh anise and just a hint of green bell pepper.

 
 

  

  

  

  

  
 
 

Scribe

Led by brothers Andrew and Adam Mariani, Scribe makes wine that are just as elegant as their stunning property and tasting room. Since taking over a historic hacienda, the Scribe team has implemented biodynamic farming with a full fruit and vegetable garden and a unique mezze-menu tasting experience. They even pay homage to their historic roots by producing the now-rare Mission grape - the original vine that Spanish missions planted for the purpose of communion wine and, therefore, the first grape planted in California! Scribe is a must-visit on a Sonoma tour for the property, the history and, of course, the wine itself.

 
 
 

  

  

  

  

  
 
 
 

Locanda

Tucked away on a rugged hillside in Sonoma Valley, Locanda Estate is a hidden gem for those who crave a classic, bold California style from a truly boutique producer. With a minuscule production, Locanda focuses on just a few rows each of Primitivo, Petite Sirah, and Cabernet Sauvignon from their Kenwood estate, with a small production of Napa Chardonnay as well. Their craggy Sonoma vineyard benefits from a distinctive microclimate, embraced by wooded hills that provide the perfect balance of warm days and cool nights. With sustainable farming practices, including the use of free-range sheep and an olive grove, Locanda is producing classic California styles with the utmost attention to detail.

 
 

  

  

  

  

  
 
 

Le Lube

Okay, so Le Lube technically isn’t a full winery; rather, it’s a wine produced by my very favorite Sonoma restaurant - Valley Bar & Bottle. Located right on the main square of the town of Sonoma, Valley is run by two young couples and has become the epicenter of the new wave of California wine. And Le Lube is the ‘house wine’ (for lack of a better term) that they produce. Their Chenin Blanc that is a dead ringer for Anjou and their red field blend of Aglianico, Zinfandel and Petite Syrah is light, juicy and spicy. They also make their own olive oil under the same label! No visit to Sonoma is complete without a meal (or three) at Valley.

 
 
 

 

 

 

 

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I hope you seek out these producers and discover some new favorite bottles. Whether you’re enjoying them here in Portland or planning your next California adventure, these wines offer a glimpse into the exciting evolution of California winemaking.

Cheers and until next week,

Kelsey

 
 

 

 
 

Last Chance to Sip Your Way Through Italy!

 
 
 
 

I'm excited to introduce a fresh approach to wine club! Based on your feedback, I'm using this fall to dive into something a bit more structured and immersive. From September to December, we’ll embark on a comprehensive exploration of Italian wines -- since that's where modern wine started in Europe -- tracing the evolution of viticulture from south to north. 

Each month will focus on different Italian regions, offering a deep dive into unique wines, terroir, and traditions. We’ll pair each month’s exploration with two carefully selected bottles from that region and then get together for a live Zoom tasting(every third Sunday at 2pm) where we delve into the wines, their history, and pairing suggestions. 

And those who complete all four months will receive my favorite bottle of 'Italian Champagne'—which you'll just have to join the club to learn about! 

 
   

  

  
 
 
JOIN THE CLUB
 
 
 

September: the sunny south, where wine started on the Italian peninsula, exploring regions like Puglia, Campania, and Sicily. Expect storied Greek lore,  Mediterranean sunshine, spicy reds and crisp, sea-salted whites.

October: central Italy, where we’ll delve into iconic regions such as Tuscany, Abruzzo, and Emilia-Romagna. Here, we’ll experience famous Sangiovese-based wines, discuss the highest concentration of gourmet food regions on the globe, and learn why you should love Lambrusco.

November: the Adriatic northeast, focusing on the elusive whites (and coppers?) of Friuli, the steely whites of Alto Adige, and then the diverse landscape of the Veneto - including the ever-popular Prosecco and the hearty winter reds of Valpolicella.

December: the mountainous northwest, with a look at Lombardy, Piedmont, and Valle d’Aosta. This month will highlight the arguably most iconic regions of Barolo and Barbaresco as well as the bubbles of Franciacorta.

 

Sign up by midnight tonight to join September's club!