So, we teamed up with two of my favorite winemakers (and humans): Grant and Renée Coulter of Hundred Suns. They’ve graciously agreed to mentor us through the production of our Pinot Noir, from grape to glass. We’ll be visiting every few weeks, getting our hands dirty and making critical decisions that will shape the final product.
Our first meeting was all about strategy and style. We rolled out of bed, grabbed a jug of coffee, picked up some epic breakfast sandwiches from Alea (the always-sold-out bakery pop-up at Mcminnville’s Thistle), and arrived at Grant and Renée’s door with six Pinot Noirs to taste.
Pinot Noir can be made in many different ways. Terroir, grape variety, and weather of that vintage all play a role, but the winemaker's decisions are crucial too. Wesley (Arden’s fabulous wine director) and I selected six Pinots from around the globe in varied styles—lean and earthy to full and plush—and we tasted them blind as a group.
As we tasted, we discussed the flavors we detected—green astringency, reduction, baking spice—and Grant and Renée explained how these characteristics might arise from different winemaking techniques. For example, brambly green notes might come from a high percentage of whole cluster, reduction from a lack of battonage (or many other factors, we were surprised to learn), and baking spice from newer, more toasted barrels.
Tasting with winemakers is always an enlightening experience. While sommeliers and wine professionals often use more accessible language (since we are front-facing with guests), discussing wine with its creators reveals the science and thought processes behind it: how high is the pH? Did this acid come from underripeness or from the soil itself? Is this reduction from nutrient deficiency in the vines or an extra toasted barrel? Is that a hint of volatility creeping in?
If you got lost in the jargon, don’t worry—many winemakers lose me too, and that’s why I’m so excited about this project. Seeing behind the curtain into how and why a wine tastes the way it does is truly eye-opening.
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